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Varanasi, India, ghats and boats on the Ganges in the golden hour
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Country

India

Continent

Asia

Airport

VNS

Currency

Indian rupee

Time zone

UTC+5:30

Deals already spotted to Varanasi

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Varanasi travel: older than legend

Varanasi, also called Benares or Kashi, lies on the Ganges in Uttar Pradesh. It is the holiest city of Hinduism, one of the seven sacred cities of Hinduism and Jainism, and one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. Mark Twain summed it up: "Benares is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend." On the ghats, people bathe, pray and cremate the dead in the open, day and night.

A city to approach with respect

Varanasi is intense. The lanes are crowded, cows wander freely, and funeral rites take place in front of visitors. The key rule: never photograph the cremations. With about 1.2 million residents in the municipality at the 2011 census (Wikipedia) it is a big city, but visits concentrate on a few kilometres of riverbank.

The ghats of Varanasi and colourful boats on the Ganges at sunset

Stone steps down to the river

Dozens of ghats along the left bank

The ghats are the great stone staircases that plunge into the Ganges, lined up for kilometres along the left bank. Dashashwamedh Ghat is the liveliest, Assi Ghat the one for dawn. Two ghats are reserved for cremations: Manikarnika, where pyres burn day and night, and Harishchandra. The best way to see them is a boat at sunrise, when the light turns the facades gold.

A sandstone palace with corner towers rising above Darbhanga Ghat, with moored boats in the foreground

Bargaining for a boat

Shared boats, motor boats or a private rowing boat: the price is always negotiated on the spot, before boarding. Wikivoyage mentions about 50 rupees per person per hour after bargaining, but fares vary a lot with time and season.

Walking the riverfront

Walking remains the best way to link the ghats; many lanes are too narrow for vehicles.

Aerial view of the ghats of Varanasi, the rooftops and the boats on the Ganges

The fire ceremony on the riverbank

CeremonyWhere and when
Evening Ganga Aarti, April to SeptemberDashashwamedh Ghat, around 6.45 pm, about 45 minutes
Evening Ganga Aarti, October to MarchDashashwamedh Ghat, around 5.45 pm, about 45 minutes
Morning aarti (Subah-e-Banaras)Assi Ghat, around 5.30 am

The evening Ganga Aarti is free. Arriving a little early lets you find a spot on the steps, or watch from a boat. Times change with the season, so check them locally.

The Ganga Aarti ceremony at nightfall, with flame lamps and boats in front of the ghat; spectators seen from behind in the foreground

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Kashi Vishwanath, the city of Shiva

According to legend, Varanasi was founded by Shiva himself. The golden Kashi Vishwanath Temple, dedicated to him, was rebuilt in the 18th century, and the city is said to have about 1,500 temples. General darshan is free.

A UNESCO city of music

Varanasi has been a UNESCO Creative City of Music since 2015. It is the home of the Benares gharana, the tabla school, and of shehnai player Bismillah Khan. Silk is also king here: Banarasi saris are famous across India, and the Godowlia (Gowdalia Chowk) area sells them in abundance.

From the conquest of 1194 to the university

The Ghurid conquest of 1194 brought the destruction of temples. The Kingdom of Benares emerged in 1737, and Banaras Hindu University was founded in 1916. Across the river stands Ramnagar Fort.

Where the Buddha preached his first sermon

Just north of Varanasi (about ten kilometres according to Wikivoyage), Sarnath is where the Buddha preached his first sermon. You can see the Dhamek Stupa, about forty metres high, and an archaeological museum closed on Fridays. Allow half a day.

Prayagraj and the Kumbh Mela

About 120 km upstream on the Ganges, Prayagraj is the city of the Kumbh Mela, one of the great gatherings of Hinduism.

The Dhamek Stupa and the lawn of the Buddhist site of Sarnath, near Varanasi

Art, archaeology and court life

PlaceGood to know
Sarnath Archaeological MuseumOn the Buddhist site; closed on Fridays.
Bharat Kala BhavanThe art and archaeology museum of Banaras Hindu University (BHU), founded in the 1920s; Wikipedia lists it among the city's places of interest.
Ramnagar FortOn the opposite bank of the Ganges; houses a museum of the Benares court (objects and collections of the ruling family).
Jantar Mantar (Man Mandir)An 18th-century observatory near the ghats, with a small light-and-sound museum according to Wikivoyage.

Varanasi is not first of all a museum city: the essentials are the ghats, temples and Sarnath. Hours and closing days vary, so check before you go.

Chaat, lassi and Benares sweets

Eating in Varanasi is mostly vegetarian in the old centre. Wikivoyage recommends aloo chaat and aloo tikia, the morning kachori sabji, Benares dum aloo cooked with jaggery and fennel, and samosas. Lassi, sometimes topped with malai and rabri, is sold in shops near Ravidas Gate or Ramnagar.

Sweets and drinks

Rabri malai, laddoos, malaiyyo (a seasonal milk foam) and thandai, a spiced milk drink, can be found near Godowlia. Benares paan, a filled betel leaf, costs from a few rupees to much more depending on the filling.

Markets

Godowlia concentrates silks, zari and crafts; a flower market and an Ayurvedic herb market are added to walking tours.

Lal Bahadur Shastri Airport

VNS

Lal Bahadur Shastri International

Varanasi's international airport is at Babatpur, about 25 km north-west of the centre. A taxi takes about an hour according to Wikivoyage, longer in traffic.

Varanasi is about 700 km south-east of New Delhi as the crow flies. Varanasi Junction railway station is the other main gateway.

From the airport

A taxi or auto-rickshaw reaches the ghats; leave a margin, as traffic is heavy, and do not cut it fine for a return flight.

Getting around Varanasi

The ghats are visited on foot, but the lanes of the old centre are too narrow for cars. Rickshaws make short trips for a few tens of rupees according to Wikivoyage (for example, about a hundred rupees between the ghats and the station), and an auto-rickshaw to Sarnath is negotiated at around 200 to 300 rupees one way. There is a prepaid auto stand at Varanasi Junction.

On the water

Boats remain the most pleasant way to follow the ghats at sunrise or sunset; bicycles can also be rented through hotels.

When to visit Varanasi?

October to March

The best time to visit. In January the average is about 22 °C by day and 9 °C at night (Wikipedia): bring a warm layer for dawn boat rides. Fog can disrupt flights in winter.

April to June

Summer is very hot: about 40 °C by day in May, with nights at 26 °C (Wikipedia). The evening Ganga Aarti then starts later, around 6.45 pm.

July to September

The monsoon brings most of the rain (around 800 mm from July to October according to Wikipedia) and a swollen river; some ghats are then partly submerged and boat rides may be limited.

Climate figures vary between stations and reference periods: treat them as orders of magnitude.

A very flexible budget

Varanasi suits every budget. According to Wikivoyage, a double room falls in three bands: up to about 3,000 rupees (budget), 3,000 to 6,000 (mid-range) and above 6,000; dorm beds cost a few hundred rupees. A simple meal at a street stall is a modest sum.

What weighs most

A private boat, a guide for the ghats and a taxi to Sarnath are the most variable costs. Always fix the price before getting in, and prefer places that display prices.

How many days in Varanasi

2d

The essentials

Sunrise boat ride, ghats, Ganga Aarti and the old city.

3d

With Sarnath

Add half a day at Sarnath and a temple or museum.

4d

Broader

Add Ramnagar, BHU and more time walking the lanes.

Varanasi in pictures

The ghats of Varanasi and colourful boats on the Ganges at sunset
A sandstone palace with corner towers rising above Darbhanga Ghat, with moored boats in the foreground
Shikhara temples and old facades along the Ganges in Varanasi

Frequently asked questions about flights to Varanasi

Which airport serves Varanasi and how far is it?

Lal Bahadur Shastri International Airport (VNS), at Babatpur, about 25 km north-west of the centre; allow about an hour by taxi.

What is the best time to visit Varanasi?

October to March, with a mild winter (about 22 °C by day and 9 °C at night in January). Summer is very hot, around 40 °C in May, and the monsoon runs from July to October.

What time is the Ganga Aarti?

At Dashashwamedh Ghat, around 6.45 pm from April to September and around 5.45 pm from October to March, for about 45 minutes. It is free. A morning aarti is held at Assi Ghat around 5.30 am.

How many days do I need in Varanasi?

Plan at least two days, ideally two to three for the ghats, the sunrise boat ride, the Ganga Aarti and Kashi Vishwanath, plus half a day for Sarnath.

How do I get around Varanasi?

On foot along the ghats, by rickshaw or auto for short trips, by boat on the river, and by auto or taxi to Sarnath, about ten kilometres away.

What budget should I plan for Varanasi?

According to Wikivoyage, a double room ranges from under 3,000 rupees (budget) to over 6,000 (upscale). Boats, rickshaws and street meals stay inexpensive, but prices are negotiated.

What should I eat in Varanasi?

Chaat, kachori sabji, lassi, milk sweets such as rabri and malaiyyo, and paan. Food in the old centre is mostly vegetarian.

How much does a flight to Varanasi usually cost?

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